Frequently Asked Questions
Straight answers to the questions Tom gets most often. If you don’t see yours here, just reach out.
Getting Started
How do I start working with Tom?
Fill out the Personalized Plan form — about five minutes of honest questions about your situation. Tom reads every submission himself and will reach back with real recommendations, usually within one business day. Wherever you are, Tom can help.
Is there any cost to work with Tom?
No. Talking to Tom, getting a Personalized Plan, comparing options, and reviewing an existing policy are all free. You only pay if you decide to put a policy in place — and even then, what you pay is the premium on the policy itself.
Will I be pressured to buy something?
No. Tom is an advisor first. Many people submit the form, get real answers, and decide the timing isn’t right — or that they already have enough coverage. That’s a perfectly good outcome.
How much life insurance do I actually need?
A common rule is 10–12 times your annual income, plus enough to cover your mortgage and any debts. The right number depends on who relies on your paycheck and how long. Tom will build this out with you rather than guess.
What’s the difference between term and permanent coverage?
Term life covers you for a set number of years — 10, 20, 30 — and is the cheapest way to protect a specific window like mortgage years or kids at home. Permanent coverage (whole life, final expense) lasts your whole life and builds cash value. Most families use a mix.
Will I need to take a medical exam?
For many policies, no. A growing share of term and final-expense products issue with just a short health questionnaire. Larger or more competitive policies may involve a quick in-home exam. Tom will tell you upfront which route your situation calls for.
How long does the whole process take?
The Personalized Plan form takes about five minutes. Tom typically reaches out within one business day. From there, some policies are approved in a few days; others involve more underwriting. You’ll get a realistic timeline on your first conversation.
Term Life Insurance
How much term life insurance do I need?
Most families land between 10 and 15 times their annual income, plus enough to pay off the mortgage. If a stay-at-home parent runs the household, factor in the cost of replacing that work too. Tom will walk through your actual numbers with you.
What term length should I pick?
Match the term to the obligation you’re protecting. A 30-year term covers a new mortgage and raising kids from early childhood through college. A 20-year term is the most popular middle ground. A 10-year term is useful for bridging a short gap before retirement income takes over.
What happens at the end of my term?
Coverage ends. Most term policies include a conversion option that lets you switch to a permanent policy without new medical underwriting, usually up to a certain age. Tom will flag that option for you well before the term expires.
Can I get a lower rate later by shopping around?
Rates get more expensive as you age, not cheaper. Locking in a policy now at a healthy rate is almost always better than waiting. If your health improves dramatically later, some products do allow re-rating — Tom will flag that if it’s worth pursuing.
Does term life build cash value?
No. Term life is pure protection — if you outlive the term, the policy simply ends. That’s exactly why it’s the cheapest form of life insurance. If you want lifetime coverage plus a cash-value component, that’s whole life.
Whole Life Insurance
Why is whole life more expensive than term?
Two reasons. First, the policy is permanent — the carrier knows it will eventually pay out, because you’re covered for life as long as premiums are paid. Second, part of your premium funds a cash value account that grows at a guaranteed rate. You’re paying for coverage plus a conservative savings vehicle inside the same product.
Can I access the cash value in my policy?
Yes. Once cash value has built up, you can borrow against it or withdraw from it. Loans accrue interest and reduce the death benefit if unpaid, but there’s no credit check and no schedule you have to follow. Tom will explain the trade-offs before you tap it.
Is whole life a good investment?
Think of it as tax-advantaged savings wrapped around a permanent life insurance policy — not an investment. If you want market-level returns, whole life is the wrong tool. If you want guaranteed lifetime coverage plus a stable, predictable cash value that grows every year regardless of markets, it earns its place in the plan.
Can I pay my policy off faster?
Yes. Limited-pay whole life lets you finish paying in 10, 15, or 20 years instead of for life. Premiums are higher while you’re paying, but you’re done — and coverage continues with no further payments. It’s popular with people who want the commitment off their books before retirement.
Who is whole life really for?
People who want guaranteed lifetime coverage and a predictable place to hold some savings. It’s also used for estate planning and to leave a tax-free legacy to beneficiaries. Tom will be candid if term life is a better fit for your situation.
Final Expense
Who is final expense insurance for?
Usually people age 50 and up who want a simple, affordable policy to cover funeral, burial, and final medical costs — so those expenses don’t land on family members. Coverage amounts typically run $10,000–$25,000.
Do I need a medical exam?
No. Final expense policies are simplified issue — no exam, just a short set of health questions. Guaranteed issue versions exist for applicants with significant health concerns, though premiums are higher and there’s typically a two-year waiting period before the full death benefit is available.
How much coverage should I get?
Enough to cover a funeral (the national average runs around $10,000), any final medical bills, and a small cushion. $10,000–$15,000 is the sweet spot for most buyers. Tom will help you right-size it so you’re not overpaying for coverage you don’t need.
What’s the two-year waiting period about?
Some guaranteed-issue policies pay a reduced benefit (usually a return of premium plus interest) if the insured passes away within the first two years for non-accidental reasons. After year two, the full death benefit is in force. Simplified-issue policies typically don’t have this wait.
Can I qualify if I have health issues?
In most cases, yes. Final expense is designed to be accessible, and many policies accept applicants with common conditions like high blood pressure, diabetes, or a cardiac history. Tom works with carriers that specialize in harder-to-place cases.
Long-Term Care
Will Medicare cover long-term care?
Only in narrow situations — usually short-term skilled nursing right after a hospital stay. Medicare does not pay for extended home care, assisted living, or long nursing-home stays. That gap is exactly what long-term care insurance is built for.
When’s the best time to buy?
Your mid-50s to early 60s. You need to be healthy enough to qualify, and premiums climb meaningfully with every year you wait. Locking in at 55 often costs less than half of what the same benefit costs at 65.
What does long-term care insurance actually pay for?
Home health aides, adult day care, assisted living, memory care, and nursing-home care. Modern policies pay for any combination — most claims today start with home care so people can stay in their own homes as long as possible.
What if I never need long-term care?
Traditional LTC policies are use-it-or-lose-it, like home insurance. If that concerns you, hybrid policies (life insurance combined with LTC benefits) pay your beneficiaries a death benefit even if the care benefit is never used. Tom will walk you through both paths so you can pick what fits.
How much does long-term care actually cost?
National median: around $6,500/month for assisted living and over $10,000/month for a private nursing-home room. Most people underestimate how quickly even modest savings get drained — which is the point of planning for it in advance.
Annuities
What’s the difference between a fixed annuity and a fixed indexed annuity?
A fixed annuity (often a MYGA) pays a guaranteed interest rate for a set number of years, like a CD. A fixed indexed annuity ties your growth to a market index such as the S&P 500, with a floor of 0% — you share in gains up to a cap, and you never lose principal in a down year.
Is my principal really safe?
Yes. With fixed and fixed indexed annuities, your principal is not exposed to market losses. The carrier guarantees it. That’s the core reason people move retirement dollars into annuities once they’re within ten years of needing the income.
Can I access my money if I need it?
Most annuities let you withdraw up to 10% of the value per year without surrender charges, and many include waivers for things like nursing-home stays or terminal illness. After the surrender period ends (typically 3–10 years), the whole balance is accessible. Tom picks contracts where liquidity actually matches your plan.
Does Tom sell variable annuities?
No. Tom works only with fixed and fixed indexed annuities — products where your principal is protected. Variable annuities put principal at market risk, which isn’t a fit for the conservative retirement planning most people come to Tom for.
How are annuity income payments taxed?
You pay ordinary income tax on the growth portion as you withdraw it. If the annuity was funded with after-tax money, the original principal comes back tax-free. IRA-funded annuities are fully taxable as withdrawn, just like a regular IRA.
Working with Tom
Am I actually talking to Tom?
Yes. There’s no assistant, no gatekeeper, no overseas call center. Every form submission, email, and phone call goes directly to Tom. That’s the whole point of this business.
Is Tom tied to one insurance company?
No. Tom is independent and places policies with whichever top-rated carrier is the best fit for your situation. If no product on his shelf makes sense for you, he’ll say so — rather than force a square peg into a round hole.
Will Tom review my existing policy?
Yes, and it’s free. Tom regularly reviews existing life insurance and annuities to check that clients aren’t overpaying or holding a product that no longer fits. Sometimes the answer is “keep what you have” — that’s a totally valid outcome.
What if I’m not ready to buy yet?
Totally fine. Plenty of people work with Tom over months or even years before putting anything in place. The Personalized Plan is a good way to start the relationship even if you’re still gathering information.
Who’s behind the Personalized Plan on the other end?
Tom personally. He reviews your answers before the first conversation, so by the time you talk, he already has a clear picture and some options to walk through. That’s why the form is a little longer than a generic contact form — it saves you time later.
After You Submit Your Plan
What happens after I submit the Personalized Plan form?
Tom gets your submission immediately. He reads through your answers, then reaches out personally — usually within one business day — by your preferred contact method. You can also book a time directly on his calendar from the thank-you page.
What is the “Secure Application” I see mentioned on the site?
That’s the final-stage application that replaces physical paperwork. It’s only sent by Tom after you’ve spoken with him, he’s made a recommendation, and you’ve agreed to move forward. It’s the last step — not the first — and not something you fill out on your own.
Can I change my answers or start over?
Yes. If something changes or you realize an answer wasn’t quite right, just tell Tom on the call — or re-submit the form. Nothing is locked in until you sign an actual application.
Ask Tom directly.
Every question is worth asking — and you’ll always get an honest answer, not a sales pitch.